Plain Fabrics
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The developmental cycle of plain fiber
Plain fabrics were a revolution for sure because of the kind of impact they offered to the mankind and their daily lives. It gave a new face to clothing and more specifically it gave a new face to the industrial development areas. At start, all people had was wool but then a time came when started to wonder about techniques and ways through which such a wool can be distorted and shaped into different pattern and textures that can be wore. This was a remarkable idea and surely the plain fabrics concept was originated from here and it started approaching an industrial perspective.
It all began from the wool of a sheep, in early times mankind came to know the way sheep grows wool and it can be refined and used for clothing. The refining process took years to be shaped and to be able to call ‘pure and effective’ refining procedure. There was no specific way of putting ways into building up a woolen fabric. It was all haphazard. Though, knitting came into being, a specific way of knitting led to a different way of preparing a plain fabric cloth. It was a very important development as knitting was done manually and it founded the basis of many important observations as well in the field of plain fabric making.
While building a plain fabric, some terms were introduced and they depicted a pattern, these terms were weft, woof and wrap. The wrap is known to be the interlacing of the woolen fabrics at the angle of 0 degrees. In other words, the interlacing that takes vertically is known as wrap. The weft and woof are known to be the way of interlacing that takes at the angle of 90 degrees or interlacing horizontally. The question that might arises in one mind that what does the pattern of weaving and the above terms have to do with a plain fabric?
To introduce attributes as smoothness of the surface and stability of woven wool, the above pattern should be followed, otherwise the whole procedure of weaving would go in vain and the cloth produced would be awfully haphazard in the way it looks and also would lose the integrity to be called a plain fabric. Though, a human can make such a mistake again and again while weaving, and the whole manual weaving procedure was very hectic and time consuming. So, a new way of developing plain fiber was introduced at that level.
A lot of development in terms of mechanical machinery was done at that time and industries were on their verge of being expanded, that’s where a concept of shifting from cottage industry to an actual industrial scale was introduced in the weaving area. This surely got many workers attention and developments started to originate out of that particular idea and within years machines did the whole refining and weaving of wool. Plain fabrics could be produced effectively and this increased the overall production as well by the help of machine that weaved in a pattern fed in them, though manual labor was also required at many points of assembly line.
Plain fabrics development took some time but the weaving at an industrial scale totally changed the way of business and also the clothes people normally wore. It gave rise to a new area in the industrial zone. All that left was to make sure that their production could be exported to other European countries and across the globe. Plain fabrics development then experienced some innovative ideas in which the wool could be weaved in different ways, firstly, only the plain patters of preparing a fabric was used.
The plain patters was quite simple, it consisted of weaving the wrap across each weft, which means that each fiber coming down vertically needed to be weaved upwards and downwards in a series and alternatively. This gave good symmetry to the plain fabric, and was reasonably stable, but this technique was seemed to be successful for only light clothes not the heavy fabrics. So, many different ways were introduced to make this technique better.
The twill pattern was then introduced and it gave a new look to the way plain fiber was produced. This was done by following the plain pattern of weaving weft across but under one or two wraps, this gave a new ‘rib’ look to the fabric that was prepared. Another way of developing plain fibers was to follow the Satin pattern which was the same as the twill pattern but fewer intersections were made of weft and wrap. It was also given a name of crowfeet and tight weaves.
Other important weaving textures comprising of Leno that lead to linen, Basket and Moco Leno. The basket pattern was specifically used in development of baskets of varying sizes and the leno was used in development plain fabrics with additional properties and attributes.